Culture/Origin: French (Paris)
Maker/RetailerLes Grands Magasins du Louvre Costumes
Date: c. 1890 – 1892
MaterialSilk Ribbed or Faille Fabric; Silk Lining; Cotton Tape/Ribbon; Metal Hook-and-Eye Closures.
Technique: Hand-stitched throughout with some possible machine-stitching on main seams.
Description:
A sophisticated two-piece dress comprised of a bodice and matching floor-length skirt, emblematic of the transitional silhouette of the early 1890s. The fabric is a deep, forest green silk, featuring a distinctive vertical rib texture (possibly a fine faille) that is woven with a supplemental pattern of trailing, naturalistic light pink/gold floral motifs (possibly lilies or narcissus).
Bodice: Features an extremely high, standing neckband and a highly structured, close-fitting torso, shaped by vertical boning channels.
Description:
The sleeves are the defining feature, executed in the early demi-gigot (half leg-of-mutton) style, showing moderate, high fullness at the shoulder that quickly tapers to a fitted cuff at the wrist.This moderate volume precedes the extreme ‘puff’ of the mid-1890s.
Front closure is secured with multiple hand-sewn metal hook-and-eye fastenings. Interior boasts a distinctive woven Grands Magasins du Louvre/Costumes No. 48 label, indicative of high-quality ready-to-wear. Notice the elegant, flowered silk fabric and the detail of the entirely hand-sewn hook-and-eye closures, which demonstrate the high standard of construction expected even from a department store purchase. The label confirms the garment’s prestigious French origin:
- Grands Magasins du Louvre was one of Paris’s grandest department stores, competing with the finest couture houses. This confirms the garment was high-quality, reflecting Parisian taste.
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“Costumes No. 48”: The term Costume refers to a sophisticated tailored day dress or suit. The “No. 48” is an internal inventory or model number, confirming the item was sold through the store’s ready-to-wear or custom-order department.
Interior of the ‘bolero’ style jacket, showing the ‘Grands Magasins du Louvre’ label