Design Era: Second Bustle Era, c. 1883–1889
Construction: Hand-stitched throughout; likely couture or high-end domestic construction.
Garment Description:
A two-piece day or promenade gown crafted from olive green silk taffeta, distinguished by its complex, highly structured silhouette and prolific use of applied texture and trim, characteristic of the 1880s.
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Fabric and Color: Olive Green silk taffeta; the fabric is high-quality, giving a crisp handle and audible rustle (known as shush). The color aligns with the rich, darker jewel tones and earth tones fashionable in the 1880s.
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Bodice: A long, form-fitting basque bodice (or cuirass bodice) that extends over the hips. The neckline is high, and the center front features decorative vertical trim, such as rows of pleating or piping, designed to create a long, slim line. The bodice is likely boned for structure and a tight fit.
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Sleeves: Long, narrow, fitted sleeves attached to a high armscye (shoulder), ending at the wrist, typical of daywear in this era.
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Skirt/Overskirt: The skirt consists of a smooth foundation skirt (underskirt) that is relatively flat in the front, and a heavily draped, complex overskirt.
The skirt drapery is carefully manipulated through swags, folds, and vertical pleating to be pulled sharply back, emphasizing a moderately sized, structured bustle at the rear, characteristic of the style’s introduction. -
Trimming: The entire gown is richly embellished using the same taffeta fabric, often cut on the bias or gathered to create contrast in texture. Trims include multiple horizontal rows of pleated flounces/ruches on the underskirt, decorative piping/cording, and large bows or ribbons strategically placed at the back waist and on the skirt drapery. The contrast between the smooth taffeta and the gathered, textural trim creates the desired visual opulence of the period. The silk fringe reflects the ‘military trim’ trend in fashion that was popular post-Civil War.